If it does not and you have 12 volts on the gauge, you are not getting continuity to ground between the sender wire and the back of the gauge. An easy check is take the temperature sender unit wire and, with the key in the on position, touch the temp sending unit wire to a good known ground. If all the gauges do in fact have 12 volts on them, you’ll need to start checking your sender wires. ![]() Perhaps the gauge is even shorted to ground internally. Check for bare or broken wires on the leg. Dealer stated that they would have to contact Mahindra rep, but first response is that the warranty is out. Tractor is back at the dealer and they are reporting possible head gasket leak of cracked head or block. When you get to a gauge that you have removed the feed from and the problem goes away, you have found the culprit. Two weeks ago coolant began spraying out of the overflow. Remove the feed wires 1 at a time until the problem goes away. ![]() If the fuse blows as soon as the key is turned on, something on the 12 volt feed circuit is shorted to ground. Put a good fuse in the “gauges” fuse location and continue testing the 12 volt feed circuit. If you have established that you DO NOT have 12 volts coming out of the panel, you’ll need to find out why. Make sure you check for voltage on BOTH sides of the fuse as they can sometimes blow in the end where it cannot be seen visibly. If not, check the “gauges” fuse at the panel. With the key in the “ON” position, take a test light and check the feed wire at back of each gauge. ![]() First, check all connections to be sure that your colors and wire functions are mating with each other (green to green, blue to blue, etc,) and check for good crimps. Solution: The fact that the indicator lights are operational proves that the instrument cluster is properly grounded. Of course, it is also possible that all the gauges are malfunctioning. It is highly unlikely that all the sender units are bad, so we can rule that out. Without a ground, the gauge will not register. The sending unit wire could be bad or broken, or the circuit from the gauge to the sender is incomplete. The sender wire is the ground to the gauge. Each gauge has a 12-volt ignition feed and a sender wire. The first, and most likely, culprit here is the fact that you are not getting 12 volts on the positive side of the gauge. As we’ve discussed previously, anything electrical needs a 12 volt feed and ground to work. If one of these relays goes bad, the other one may still work.There are a few possible scenarios going on here. In some cases, the high beams and low beams have separate relays. In cases like this, a new relay may be required. If the relay has gone bad, it may be receiving the electricity from the switch, but could be unable to complete the circuit. Rather, it sends a little bit of energy to a relay, and the relay completes the circuit. The switch that you flip doesn't actually complete the circuit. In your car, things work a bit differently. ![]() When you flip a light switch in your house, the switch completes a circuit and turns on the lights. Because of the complexity of the wiring in your vehicle, it's recommended that you leave the diagnosis to the experts. But if it's due to an underlying wiring problem, the replacement fuse won't last, either. If it's a one-time issue, the fuse might just blow once. In fact, wiring trouble could also cause a fuse to blow, since fuses burn out when excess current runs through a system. The wiring in your car is complex, and faulty wiring could cause the headlights not to work.
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